Fostering: Getting Involved
What kind of training do I need?
Ideally, a foster volunteer should have some general experience
with dogs. You should be familiar with basic dog care and training.
Your shelter or rescue group might require some additional training,
such as an orientation. If you plan to do breed rescue, you should
have some knowledge of your chosen breed.
Where will my foster dogs come
from?
Starting your own rescue can be a tricky business, emotionally,
legally, and logistically. Instead, I strongly recommend volunteering
for an established organization. Working with a humane society or
rescue
group is much easier and safer than trying to do everything on your
own with no physical, financial, or emotional assistance. Most organizations
will
already
have adoption contracts and other legal issues in place,
and many
shelters have a veterinarian on staff. In the event that you can't
keep a foster dog (for example, due to aggression towards
your other animals, or even something as simple as a weekend trip
you want to take), it's good to know there's someone out there who
can take the dog back, either permanently or temporarily.
Over
time, running your own rescue will involve recruiting volunteers,
raising funds
for
vet care,
seeking
legal assistance
to
enforce
adoption contracts or avoid lawsuits, finding help with your website,
researching the complicated and expensive process of getting your
non-profit
status, etc. There are
many wonderful organizations overflowing with dogs that
need your help. Instead of striking out on your own, why not lend
them
a hand
instead
of
trying to duplicate their efforts? You can focus on what you really
love -- direct care of the dogs -- and leave all the extraneous stuff
to the employees and other volunteers of your organization.
When choosing a shelter or rescue, you'll need to do a little homework
first to ensure a good fit with your own beliefs and preferences.
Start with your local humane society. Discuss their
policies on adoption contracts and requirements, selecting dogs
for
foster
homes,
vaccinations,
quarantine, spay/neuter, temperament evaluations,
and euthanasia. Find out what type of support they can offer you
with
training
and behavioral issues, finding and
screening
potential adopters, vet care (especially
after hours), or taking back dogs that aren't a good fit for
your home. Make sure
that you will
be allowed to be as involved as you wish in the process of
choosing new homes, or rejecting them. Having no input in your beloved
foster dog's permanent placement can be heartbreaking.
If you aren't satisfied with the answers you receive, keep looking
until you find an organization that you will be proud to support.
Check Petfinder for an extensive
list of shelters and rescues by zip code.
What kinds of dogs will I foster?
If you work with a breed rescue, you could get dogs of all ages,
temperaments, and backgrounds. Most will be adults or seniors. They
might be owner surrenders, puppy mill rescues, or dogs pulled from
shelters. If you foster for an animal shelter, you will most likely
get a lot of medium or large sized, adolescent mixed breeds that
were either strays or were surrendered by their owners. You might
also
get some
purebreds (about 25% of all dogs in shelters are purebreds) or even
some litters
of puppies that aren't old enough to be adopted.
Regardless of the source, you will have some dogs that will be a
challenge to foster. Some of them might have behavior problems that
led to their surrender. Others might be sick. Many will not be housetrained.
But there will also be dogs that are sweet, well-behaved, housetrained,
and fun to have around.
What should I do before bringing
the foster home?
Your own dogs and your fosters should be vaccinated for rabies,
distemper, parvo, and other common diseases, as recommended by your
vet. The bordatella (kennel cough) vaccine may also be recommended.
There
is a good chance that your foster could be harboring a disease,
and it
isn't
wise
to
unnecessarily risk your own pets' health. It would be ideal to keep
incoming dogs separate from your own pets for a period of time if
you have the space to do so (and this is a must if
you are pulling dogs that haven't been fully vetted), but this isn't
always realistic
since the foster dog will be living in
your
home
as a member
of the
family.
If possible, see if your shelter can vaccinate and quarantine the
dog for two weeks before you agree to bring him home.
Make sure you have a well-fitted collar and ID tag for the foster
dog. Your group might provide this for you. Some shelters will also
implant
a microchip. Remember that this dog doesn't know you yet and might
get spooked and run. Take all possible precautions. Better safe than
sorry!
You
will have to treat the new dog like a puppy at first. Puppy proof
the house before he arrives. If he is young or has not been
raised in a house, he might be destructive and not housetrained.
You should set up a crate for him with bedding that can be easily
cleaned or thrown away if soiled or chewed (like old towels).
If
you choose not to use a crate,
you
should have
a
small, dog-safe room (like a laundry room) for when you cannot
watch the dog. If you use an outdoor kennel for unsupervised time,
make
sure it is very secure (a cover or top is recommended) and be sure
to
provide
appropriate shelter,
shade,
bedding, and clean water.
How do I introduce the foster
to the resident animals?
If you're lucky, the rescue group will have already found out whether
the dog gets along with other dogs and cats. If you aren't very familiar
with dog to dog communication, you should do the introductions under
the supervision of someone who is -- such as other members of your
rescue group. In the meantime, it's well worth it to become a student
of canine communication. Spend time in dog parks watching how dogs
interact. Invest in some books and videos on the subject.
You should introduce the foster dog to your own dog in a neutral
location if possible. If you are concerned
about either
of the dogs'
potential reactions, you might want to try introducing them on opposite
sides of a chain
link fence. I prefer to let dogs meet off leash when possible so
that their body language is natural and not hindered by the leash.
I
introduce most of my fosters to my own dogs one at a time in my fenced
yard, starting with my friendliest, most stable dog first. I try
not to intervene more than necessary while the dogs are getting to
know
one another.
A spray bottle can be a useful deterent to correct inappropriate
behavior.
This
method has worked for me because I know what to expect from my
own dogs. You know your own dog better than anyone else, and you
will
soon
be fairly astute at predicting his reactions to the various fosters
that you bring home.
Unless
you have reason to suspect bloodshed, you can expect most dogs to
work things out pretty quickly without any major issues.
You will notice a lot of circling and sniffing. You may initially
see some posturing and growling but in most cases it will be mostly
noise,
and usually
sounds much worse than it really is.
If the dogs approach
each other stiffly with a direct stare, ears erect and tails held
high, you may be in for a serious confrontation and should intervene.
If the dogs seem
basically okay with each other but still slightly uncomfortable,
a leash walk side by side often seems to help. You may need to
enlist a helper and start with the dogs under good control at a close
heel
and several feet apart. After a few walks like this, 
even my grumpy
"bitch" Echo has been able to accept all of my foster dogs and
I can easily walk them side by side. I don't know why this method
works,
but I have had good success with it.
Soon the dogs might begin to play with each
other. If not, they will usually at least tolerate each other's presence.
Even if the dogs seem to get along, it's a good idea to keep them
separated when you are not around to keep an eye on things. Crates
are a worthwhile investment, even if you haven't used one with your
own dog. I have one in nearly every room in the house. Baby gates
are also good to have on hand.
If you have cats or other small animals, please be careful. Use
common sense and think about what the various breeds have been bred
for. I once
fostered a coonhound who was surrendered for killing the 
family's
pet rabbit. Although I'm sure it was devastating for the family,
they couldn't have been too surprised at that outcome. If you
wish to introduce your foster dog to your resident cat, keep the
dog on
a leash.
Small pets
should have their own safe, dog-free retreats in your home. Baby
gates are
good because your cat can jump over (or sneak under) them. There
are also some gates on the market that have small kitty access doors.
Be sure the cat's food and litterbox are in a dog-free zone, or you
might
find that your beloved kitty is not eating or going to the bathroom
because it's trying to avoid the scary new dog. Above all, never
leave them alone together.
What are my responsibilities?
You will need to provide basic care such as food, water, shelter,
grooming, and exercise. Your foster dog will need his own leash,
collar, bowl, and toys. You will probably need to give the dog a
bath when he arrives (unless the dog just had surgery -- if so, you
may need to wait a few days), and be sure to check 
for fleas. If
the dog is sick, you might have to give medications or transport
the dog to vet appointments. The cost of vet care is typically covered
by the shelter or rescue group, but all arrangements must be made
through the group. If you choose to take the dog to a different vet
without approval, you may be responsible for paying the bill. This
is because most shelters and rescues either have a vet on staff,
or have made arrangements with a specific vet who will treat all
their rescue dogs at a reduced fee.
It's also important to provide some training.
Housetraining
is an essential skill for the dog to master. Crate training is useful,
especially for young, destructive, or unhousetrained dogs. Basic
manners such as appropriate greeting behavior, walking nicely on
a leash, and coming when called will make your foster dog more
adoptable and help to ensure his success in his new home. You might
make the dog more appealing to potential adopters by teaching a fun
trick, like shake hands, fetch, or take a bow.
By far the most important thing
you need to provide is love and attention. Whether your foster
came from a loving home or an abusive situation, he will probably
be confused and
anxious. Spend time cuddling, fetching, playing tug, and just hanging
out
watching TV together. Be patient; it might take him a few days
or weeks to really settle in.
How do I find permanent homes
for my fosters?
Put up posters at animal shelters, veterinarians' offices, pet supply
stores, community bulletin boards, dog parks, dog training clubs,
etc. Create a web page, or find existing online sites that are willing
to post his picture. Put an ad in the paper. Participate in mobile
adoptions at pet supply stores.
Some dogs will only be with you for a few days. Others will be around
for months, and you might start to wonder if they will live with
you forever. Be patient. The right home will come in time.
Check out Placing Your Foster Dog for
more info.
How do I know my limits?
If you're like me, you would like to be able to rescue every dog
that needs help. Recognize that you can't save them all. Learn to
say no! You have other commitments that must take precedence at times
-- family, job, your own pets. If you try to do too much, you will
burn out. You need to be selective about which dogs you will
take, and realistic about how many you can keep at one time. Above
all, don't feel bad about wanting some time off between fosters.
You deserve it.
Personally
I will only take dogs that I am reasonably sure will get along with
my own dogs and won't endanger my cat. I can only
take one at a time. [... famous last words! This
was true when I originally wrote this article, but I ended up fostering
two dogs at a time -- after adopting a third dog! Still, the important
point is to know your limits and don't overextend yourself.]
I like to take a few weeks off after placing a dog, especially if
I
have
had
him for a long time. It gives me time to enjoy a slightly more normal
life with my fiance and our own pets, and I find I appreciate them
more after I've "been away."
Then again, getting a new foster always helps to heal the pain of
giving up the last one....
Whom do I contact?
Start with your local humane society or animal shelter. If they
don't have a foster program, maybe you can help them start one. If
you are interested in doing rescue for a specific breed, contact
your local breed club, or the national club. They should be able
to give you contacts for local rescue groups. Many rescue groups
have websites, so you can do some research on the internet. Check
out Petfinder for an extensive
listing of shelters and rescue groups by zip code.
For more information, consider joining FosterDogs,
an email list for people who foster.
